The last and decisive battle between Guru Gobind Singh Ji and the Mughal forces was fought at the lake of Khidrana, the place now known as Sri Muktsar Sahib. Guru Ji blessed the martyrs of this battle with the title of “Muktay” (Liberated Ones) and named this place “Muktsar” — the Pool of Liberation. In memory of the Forty Liberated Ones (Chali Mukte) who attained martyrdom here, a three–day Shaheedi Jor Mela is held every year from 30th Poh (Punjabi month). On this occasion, hundreds of thousands of devotees from India and abroad bathe in the holy sarovar (sacred pool). This historic, religious, and heritage-rich city comprises two main gurdwara complexes, described as follows: Gurdwara Sri Tutti Gandi Sahib At this sacred spot, Guru Gobind Singh Ji, on the humble request of Bhai Maha Singh — the leader of the forty Singhs who had earlier written a “bedava” (letter of renunciation) and left the Guru at Anandpur Sahib — tore up that letter, thereby “re-tying” the broken bond. Hence, the place is known as Tutti Gandi (Re-tied Knot). The original building of this historic gurdwara collapsed during the events around 1984, and has since been reconstructed. Right beside it lies a vast holy sarovar where devotees take a sacred dip on the day of Maghi. This sarovar is considered the second largest after the sarovar of Tarn Taran Sahib. Near the sarovar stands the tree where Guru Gobind Singh Ji is believed to have tied his horse. Next to it is a large sarai (inn/guesthouse) with accommodation facilities for hundreds of pilgrims. Gurdwara Sri Tambu Sahib At the time of the battle with the Mughals, this area contained a water body known as “Khidrane Di Dhab” (the pool of Khidrana). Guru Ji’s beloved Khalsa army hung their cloaks and other garments on the surrounding trees, bushes, and small mounds around the pool. From a distance, these garment-covered trees created the illusion of numerous tents (tambu). From a military perspective, this was a brilliant strategic move. Although the number of Singhs was quite small, the Mughals, seeing what looked like many tents, assumed that the Sikh army was very large. Thus, through this masterstroke of strategy, Guru Ji demoralized the enemy despite having fewer troops. Today, Gurdwara Tambu Sahib stands at this very site. Gurdwara Mai Bhago Kaur In Sikh history, Mai Bhago Kaur holds a place of great honor. It was through her powerful words and inspiration that the forty Singhs who had once written a bedava and abandoned Guru Ji at Anandpur Sahib repented and returned to join the Guru’s army. These very Singhs fought with exceptional bravery in the battle of Khidrana and attained martyrdom. In their memory, and in honor of Mai Bhago Kaur, Gurdwara Mai Bhago Kaur has been established here. Gurdwara Shaheed Ganj Sahib During the battle at Khidrana, the place where the martyrs were cremated by Guru Gobind Singh Ji with his own hands is now marked by Gurdwara Shaheed Ganj Sahib. In remembrance of these martyrs, a continuous series of Akhand Paths (uninterrupted recitations of Sri Guru Granth Sahib) is held here from 12 February (21 Vaisakh) to 3 May every year in the memory of the Forty Liberated Ones. Around the time of the Maghi Mela, Akhand Paths begin on 12 January and the bhog (conclusion ceremony) is performed on 14 January. Hundreds of thousands of devotees come here to bow their heads before the Chali Muktay. The Museum (Ajāib Ghar) Between Gurdwara Tutti Gandi Sahib and Gurdwara Shaheed Ganj Sahib stands a museum (Ajāib Ghar), where a beautiful series of hand-painted artworks is displayed. Artists actively work here, creating new paintings as well. Through these paintings, the history of Khidrana Di Dhab and scenes from the battle fought here are vividly depicted. Gurdwara Sri Tibbi Sahib During the battle of Khidrana, Guru Gobind Singh Ji, keeping strategic military considerations in mind, took position on a high mound (tibbi). From this elevated point, Guru Ji commanded the Sikh forces and, with showers of arrows, caused great confusion and panic in the ranks of the enemy. On this very mound now stands Gurdwara Tibbi Sahib. At the conclusion of the Maghi Mela, the grand Nagar Kirtan that starts from Gurdwara Tutti Gandi Sahib reaches and passes through this gurdwara. Gurdwara Rakabganj Sahib Adjacent to Tibbi Sahib is Gurdwara Rakabganj Sahib. During the battle, one of the stirrups (rakab) of Guru Ji’s horse broke here. That stirrup has been respectfully preserved at this site. There is also a sarovar here. During the Maghi Mela, large-scale langars (community kitchens) are organized for the devotees. Gurdwara Datan Sar Sahib Among the principles of Sikhi as demonstrated by Guru Gobind Singh Ji, care for the body, personal hygiene, and physical well-being also had an important place. Even during days of intense battle, Guru Ji regularly maintained the discipline of datan-kurla (cleaning teeth with a twig and rinsing the mouth) and bathing. A little distance from Tibbi Sahib lies the place where Guru Ji used to perform his morning datan. Today, this sacred spot is marked by Gurdwara Datan Sar Sahib. The Grave of the Mughal Who Attacked from Behind One day, during the days of battle, as Guru Ji was performing his regular morning datan and rinsing, a Mughal soldier from the province of Sirhind attempted a treacherous attack from behind, intending to assassinate the Guru. However, the ever-alert Guru Gobind Singh Ji — “Ready at all times” — responded instantly. With a single powerful blow of the iron water pot (sarabloh gharva) that he held, Guru Ji struck down the Mughal soldier on the spot. At this location stands the grave of that “kafir” Mughal. It is said that every Sikh of the Guru symbolically shows their contempt by striking the grave with their shoes as they pass. Nihang Camps and Hola Mohalla Within this complex, there are about half a dozen camps of Nihang Singhs. Here, bhogs (completion ceremonies) of recitations from the Dasam Granth are performed. Langar is prepared in vessels made of pure iron (sarabloh). The festival of Hola Mohalla is also celebrated here. The Maghi Mela reaches its conclusion alongside the grand celebrations of Hola Mohalla. On this occasion, Nihang Singhs, in full traditional regalia and martial glory, demonstrate ancient battle techniques — performing Gatka (Sikh martial art), horseback skills, riding four horses simultaneously, and striking and uprooting wooden pegs with spears. These awe-inspiring feats of martial prowess fill the hearts of the devotees with joy and admiration.
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